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Marrow of the Matter

Comments Off on Marrow of the Matter 14 January 2013

Roasted-Bone-MarrowWhat? You have never had bone marrow either? Let me splane you something: Marrow is one of the purest forms of natural decadence and pure beef flavor you will find. Once thought to be sinful because of its high-cholesterol content, this source of protein, rich in vitamins and minerals, is actually high in monounsaturated fats, which decrease LDL (bad) cholesterol levels. That is not to say that it is not high in fat, because it is. Fortunately, it is high in good-for-you fat and proteins. Some doctors even consider the good-for-youness of marow to be a brain food. Others even say that, like chicken noodle soup, marrow broth is great for warding of a cold and fighting back the sniffles.

Here are some of the need-to-knows about serving up bone marrow. First and foremost, purchase your beef bones from a butcher you trust is selling you what you’re asking for. Ask specifically for marrow bones, beef or veal. I prefer the old-school way of purchasing 1- to 2-inch rounds, cut like little bone marrow tree stumps. The marrow contains a fair amount of blood, so you need to soak them in ice water for 18-24 hours, changing the water every six hours. Then I like to freeze my marrow bones. This helps the bone to caramelize in a hot oven, but not allow all the marrow to melt away into the bottom of your roasting pan.

Once you have soaked and frozen your bones, it is important to work up a few accompaniments that will accent and amplify the profligacy of the marrow itself. Toast is classic. Chips would be good, too. And my truffled popcorn salad — epic!

I do want to say that one of the reasons this popcorn salad was so heroic was the micro mire poix greens sponsored by Fresh Origins. They provided the tiniest, cutesiest carrot tops, celery sprouts and red onion blossoms. Go to their website (www.freshorigins.com) to order awesome foodie trinkets to play around with and you will feel like a real-deal PBF&W chef.

Celebrity chef Todd Fisher is a Herald columnist, chef de cuisine at Stick’s at the Inn at Spanish Bay and a brand consultant. E-mail him at cheftoddsdish@gmail.com.

Roasted Bone Marrow at Home

16 2-inch veal marrow bones
1 cup finely ground panko bread crumbs
2 tsp. fresh thyme leaves
¼ tsp. freshly cracked black pepper
¼ t. maldon salt
2 T. chopped truffle trimmings
2 T. truffle juice
1 oz. whiskey
1 T. minced shallot
4 T. olive oil
1 cup organic white-kernel popcorn
2 T. corn oil
1 bunch picked chervil
1 bunch picked Italian parsley

Steps: After soaking the marrow bones for 18-24 hours and changing the water every ix hours, freeze the bones. Heat oven to 450¼. In your blender or food processor blend the panko till very fine with the thyme leaves, pepper and salt, until you have fine crumbs. Remove from blender or food processor and set aside. In the same blender, combine the truffle trimmings, truffle juice, whiskey and shallot. Puree until smooth and slowly add the olive oil till emulsified and creamy. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and set aside.

Place the frozen bones on a sheet pan, season them with salt and pepper and quickly add 1 T. of olive oil to your crumb mix. Top each bone with a T. of bread-crumb mixture. Roast for 10-15 minutes till crust is brown and bone has colored a little. Pop your popcorn and toss immediately with the fresh herbs, and dress with appropriate amount of truffle vinaigrette. Serve bones piping hot with a side of the popcorn salad a small spoon and a SLH Pinot.

That’s livin’ baby!!

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