Posted: 08/01/2011 08:39:41 AM PDT

Updated: 08/01/2011 08:49:50 AM PDT

It seems you can’t go to any casual-concept restaurant anymore and not find a rendition of a fish taco. And I am easily bamboozled into ordering them because I love me a good fish taco. Having been disappointed so many times along the way — and with my beautiful bride ordering one just a few days ago, to which she said, and I quote” “These fish tacos should be ashamed of themselves” — it felt only necessary to share the finer points of this dish.

Like most things you are going to eat, there is personal preference involved, and your opinion about fish tacos and my opinion about fish tacos may differ.  However, the one thing we cannot disagree upon is the fish for a fish taco. A must is using fresh “tastes like the sea it swam in” fish. I would like to quickly add a small disclaimer. By fresh, I mean tastes fresh and delicious, with a clean, ocean-like vibrancy about it. What I am saying is, I am not against fish that has been processed at sea and flash frozen to ensure the fish is in pristine condition when it is thawed and consumed. The reality is, a lot of people are afraid to buy fresh fish for fear it will not, in fact, be fresh. A genuine concern I may add, when you consider the perishability of the product itself and the fact that people aren’t buying it for fear that it’s not fresh … what a vicious cycle.

If you have fresh-from-the-ocean fish, use it. If you have a hankering for fish tacos and you do not have fresh-from-the-ocean fish, use frozen.

When talking fish, I have used several different species over the years; tuna, halibut, salmon, mahi … all delicious and feasible, but I like white
fish, firm but flaky, sweet and mild.

Almost every fish could be a fish taco candidate, but some are just better suited for that use than others. For me, salmon does not fall into that
category, nor does mackerel or sardines (they are a bit more gamey and need a heavier-handed presentation). Now, halibut, grouper, snapper, bass … those are fish taco superstars! Where we may begin to disagree is whether to use crispy fish or grilled fish. I like both a grilled version and fried option, and sometimes the day determines the cooking medium, but more often than not I am looking for a sweet piece of fish draped in a light batter and gently fried till golden brown and crispy.

I have fond memories of those roadside fish taco stands down in Baja, and I use those memories as my inspiration for what makes the perfect fish taco. I like to use tempura batter; it is light, not heavy and oil absorbent, which can make the fish heavy and oily and hide the sweet, delicate flavors.

Once you’ve decided upon your means by which to deliver the fish to the tortilla, you have to have considered the tortilla itself, right? Again,
preference may factor in here, but I believe corn is the answer to the fish taco conundrum. They should be warmed but not crispy, supple yet durable enough to hold it all together.

With two of the critical issues resolved, we need to talk toppers, the goodies that add to the whole fish taco experience (cabbage, salsas, avocado
etc.) When it comes to the cabbage, I like a dressed cabbage, like coleslaw, something that adds a little crunch and moisture to the undertaking. As for salsas, pico de gallo adds crunch and texture, while adding freshness and a little kick for that “oh yeah!” What is pico you ask? It literally translates to “the roosters beak,” and is a relish or salsa of finely diced fruits, most commonly tomato, onion, peppers and often cilantro, with a few squeezes of lime for acidity. Legend tells us it was said to have been eaten by the pinch between the index finger and the thumb, similar to how a roosters beak would operate.

As for avocado, I like guac — no, I love guac — but a simply seasoned wedge of avocado makes for a perfect presentation and the creamy texture you get with each bite through the avocado is sublime. As if that wasn’t enough, a drizzle of what I like to call salsa blanca, a mayonnaise-based blend of lime juice, red chile sauce and salt; spicy, yet creamy and silky smooth to finish off the experience.

Oh my goooodness! In my world, there is never a wrong time for fish tacos, and there need not be any special occasion to fire up some oil and whip up some salsa blanca, and what do you know — it’s a party.

When you consider my fish tacos have been known to save a man’s life, I thought it only fair to share my recipe with you. Cheers and many happy fish taco gatherings.

Fisher’s Fish Tacos
(Serves 4-6)

¾ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup cornstarch
1 tsp. baking powder
½ tsp. salt
1¼ cups sparkling water
¾ cup mayonnaise
1 lime, juiced
4 T. Tapatio or Chulula hot sauce
½ tsp. ground cumin
½ tsp. ground cayenne pepper
½ med. head cabbage, finely shredded
¼ cup sour cream
2 tsp. salt
¼ tsp. dried oregano
2 avocados, cut into wedges
Limes wedges for garnish
Pico de gallo
1 qt. oil for frying
1 lb. cod fillets, cut into 2-oz to 3-oz. portions
1 (12 oz.) package corn tortillas

Steps: To make the batter: In a large bowl, combine flour, cornstarch, baking powder, and salt. Add water, then quickly stir into the flour mixture (don’t worry about a few lumps).

To make salsa blanca: In a medium bowl, mix together mayonnaise, lime juice and hot sauce and spices and mix well until consistency is slightly runny.

To make slaw: Mix sour cream, salt oregano and cabbage, mix well and set aside till ready to serve.

Heat oil in deep-fryer to 375 degrees. Dust fish pieces lightly with flour.
Dip into tempura batter, and fry until crisp and golden brown. Drain on paper towels. Lightly fry tortillas; do not crisp. To serve, place coleslaw on tortilla top with fried fish and top with a wedge of avocado, a pinch or two of pico and a drizzle of salsa blanca.